Hanging Out: The Beach in Penang

So, two days at the beach, a blissful escape from the noise of the city the stress of too much travel (okay I admit there can be too much travel if it is all for work) and some serious downtime by the pool. It has been crazy few months around the Vagabond family household and Mom needed some serious beach time with her little munchkins. We hadn’t been back as a family to Penang since 2005 and while I have been there for work, I had not made it out to the beach.

Penang is sort of a weird little island; one part down by the airport is rapidly developing into a major economic power child for Malaysia, lots of industry, and lots of manufacturing. The Northern part of the island is where the UNESCO World Heritage recognized city of Georgetown is located. Dilapidated buildings meet old world elegance and some of the most amazing food at street vendor prices. And then there are the beaches. Frankly we were not too impressed in 2005. You drove by the beaches and they looked pretty, but the flotsam and jetsam and generally pollution made many of the beaches less inviting close up.

Five years can do a lot for a location. On the positive side the beaches, at least those by our hotel and that we saw were much cleaner. The water was cleaner and the overall feel of the beaches seems to be that the local Penangites are taking care of the natural resources that they are entrusted with. But, of course there is bad news too. Over the last 5 years hundreds of new construction projects have cropped up-all with “Ocean Views”. Buildings crowding the beaches, buildings place precariously on the edge of cliffs, real estate speculators from Kuala Lumpur and Singapore have been snapping up property in order to make a quick buck (this is also the case in downtown Georgetown where the locals are rapidly being priced out of the market). But, I was talking about the beaches and in particular our hotel.



Batu Ferringghi is where a number of the beach hotels of Penang are located. In particular, the Shangri-la, Holiday Inn and Park Royal are all within a short stretch of beach, the Hard Rock is just down the road and in front of the Holiday Inn is an active night market with all the trinkety schlock any kid could want, let’s just say the bubble blowers were popular…and plenty of less expensive food could be found just a short walk from the hotel, in particular the Long Beach Seafood Hawker Centre. We think the Satays we had there rival some of the best we have had in 6 years traveling around Singapore and Malaysia. We stayed at the Park Royal and really enjoyed our stay and I will post a “review” of the hotel in a later post.

The beaches of Batu Ferringghi are filled with all sorts of “beach” activities; jet skis, parasailing and horseback riding can all be yours for a small price. Frankly I am not as much of an “adventure” junkie as I used to be but the parasailing looked much safer here than on the beaches of Thailand, if you are so inclined. Remember that the beaches here are often less monitored than other places in the world and sneaker waves, strong undertows and jellyfish are all very real dangers in deeper water. We tend to let the kids build sandcastles and play in the shallow water but with them being younger we leave the real swimming to the hotel pool.


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Monday Dreaming: Photo's From Penang

While I sit here dreaming a life even more traveled than the one I have now. One that involves good things and family, and while enjoying the thought of dreams that were started by new friends, I am very grateful to have had 3 days in Penang with my kids and my husband. A bit of time to recharge at the beach, drink a few glasses of wine at a beach hut, get a much needed massage and hang at the pool and slip and slide down some wicked pool slides. While I dig back into work today, and unfortunatly out of my dreams here are some more shots from Penang to keep you all entertained!



The slide at Park Royal Hotel


Kiera's tearing it up!


Splashdown



And my view from the coffee shop



For more Monday Dreams, visit Mother of All Trips Monday's are for Dreaming

Kids in Penang: Kopitiam Lunch

It's Photo Friday over at Delicious Baby, and today's shots are all about Penang Malaysia and eating a simple lunch with the kids. Penang is famous for its food and it is hard to find a more food obsessed group of people in Asia. Sure Singapore has its foodies, Malacca has its niche, Hong Kong citizens love the Dim Sum. But Penang, it is just part of life and each and every street corner has food waiting to be discovered and eaten. No matter what the kids want, if this shop doesn't have it, just cross the street.

Waiting for the food is the hardest part!

Strawberry Juice Blended!

A huge shout out to the amazing photography and mouth watering writing over at Eating Asia that turned me onto the love of Penang Food. Also some props to our new friends at Our Travel Lifestyle for dinner with them and their two fun kids!

Kids in Penang: Photos from the Past

I am trying to scan in some old negatives from our trip to Penang in with the kids who were just really babies back in 2005. The scanning is slow going but the results are a real treat. Here are a few of some of my favorites.

Sunset on Batu Ferrenghi

Downtown Georgetown

Batu Ferringhi

Penang Peranakan Museum

Sarawak Malaysia with Kids: Visiting the Orangutans

We had left the hotel at 7 am in order to be at the Semengoh Reserve by 8:30 to see the morning feedings and we were ready to head back to Kuching and Damai Beach to get some lunch. The walk into the forest to see the Orangutans had been good, but the kids were tired and starting to get hungry. We were on a group tour, so we had to wait for one more couple who had not yet returned to the van, when we heard some sounds in the distance. A bit of brush rustling and shifting and we saw her. She came out alone at first and gave us the once over. She looked back into the woods and out came her young child.



Seeing a wild Orangutan up this close was a rare treat, but we were also a bit unnerved. The guide recognized this Orangutan and said she had a habit of being a bit protective of her young children and that we should remain calm and non-threatening. Okay I thought, I am able to do that. Jeff, on the other hand started to call our kids, who were very interested in seeing her up close back to a safe distance.



She kind of hung out for a while, not doing much or going anywhere, just looking at us. After about 15 minutes she piled her babe up onto her back and she walked down the hill. It was about this time the last members of our group started to walk back up to the van, ironically, they had walked further into the woods in an attempt to catch the apes up close and we had stayed back because of the kids.

The Semengoh Orangutan Reserve is about a 45 minute drive from Kuching on the island of Borneo and is open most days with a long lunch on Fridays. It is a great opportunity to see some of Asia's native aninmals in the wild and in a protected environment. It is a fun and safe day trip from your hotel and a great way to show the kids some of the attempts to save this majestic creature.

Getting there: You can travel by taxi or hire a “guide” through your local hotel. We did the latter and included a stop at a Crocodile Farm (a post for another day for sure!) From what we have heard, Semengoh is much smaller than the Sepilok Reserve and the chances of seeing Orangutans tends to be less in Semengoh, but we lucked out that day.

Would we go back, you bet, now it is just a matter of planning the next trip!

This post is part of Photo Friday over at Delicious Baby. For more great photos check them out here.

Travel Plans: Upcoming Asia Trips with the Kids

The Vagabondmom, and my co-workers, determining our next stop at Expo in Shanghai, 2010















This week I am in Singapore. In fact, I am in Singapore for 10 days, one of the longest stretches at home in about 3 months and the month of October looks like it is going to be a bear and a half for work related travel. This week however, is one for catch up, a bit of home maintenance, some doctors visits and time to dig out the map and start planning our family trips for the next few months.






October offers us a short break for the kids, this 5 day weekend, we plan to leverage on some work I need to do in Penang, so my trip will be planned around the kids holiday. Being on the road without the family stinks, when they can come along it is so much better. While there in Penang we hope to schedule a meet up with @ccburns and his wife Tracy and their super cute kids.







November offers a short weekend, the Deepavali Festival and the kids get one day off from School. I need to be in Kuala Lumpur for a scrapbooking weekend, where I will teach a class for a bunch of super cool scrappers in the Bangsar area, I figure I will bring Hubby and Kids along for the weekend as well!





December is our big trip to Siem Reap. We will be going with friends from our condo here in Singapore and we plan on taking in the Angkor ruins, doing some volunteer work and spending some time hanging out with a great family. Our trip falls over the New Years holiday, so I am sure some party will be attended as well.

I can't wait to get some more posts up here this week, making up for lost time, but I plan on loading some pictures of China, Japan and Malaysia as well as a post on Kuching Malaysia this week!

Photo Friday: The Vagabondboy

A trip to Phuket Thailand, Spring 2002

In the first nine years of my life, I think I traveled to exactly 2 foreign countries. Canada and Mexico. I think I did not go beyond those 2 countries, and my own home country of the USA for an additional 10 years. At the age of 19 I stepped out of my comfort zone and went to Germany with stops in France and Austria. Not a huge step into the un-known, but quite enough for me.


Taipei Taiwan 2002

Now, contrast that with my Son’s first 9 years. He was born in Taiwan. Traveled to China, Hong Kong, Macau, Thailand, the continental US and Guam, as well as Singapore and Japan all before he was 2 years old. A few more years he has made trips to Thailand an annual event, with side trips to Malaysia, Indonesia and the island of Borneo as well as semi-annual trips back to the US and a trip to Mexico. Not bad for a kid who does go to school from August to June and whose parents work full time.


In honor of my third culture son, who is celebrating his 9th birthday with an Indiana Jones Adventure birthday party this weekend, here are some highlights of some of the explorer's trips around the world.



Shanghai China, Summer 2002







Macau Fall 2002


Japan Fall 2002





Guam 2003






Penang 2004

Singapore Zoo


Phuket 2006


Mulege Baja Mexico 2007



Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia 2008


Disneyland 2010




Sharing these as part of Photo Friday on Delicious Baby visit her page for more great Photo Friday posts

Travel in Malaysia During Ramadan

Malaysian Style Mosque in Malacca

I started writing this post while in Malaysia an Islamic country and it is Ramadan, (which is the holy month when Muslims around the world fast and abstain from physical needs during the daylight hours) I can’t help but recall the first time I traveled to Malaysia during this month. I was a bit nervous, a bit scared of what I could eat and when, I was also a bit on the clueless side as to proper manners and expected behavior during the fast. Today, I thought I would write a quick post about traveling during Ramadan, at least as it applies to the parts of Malaysia where I have traveled. I by no means am an expert on the subject, but I figure if I travel to Malaysia and bring my kids, what's stopping you?

First, the question I hear from friends and family are: is it safe, can I find food, can I eat and drink during the daylight hours ,and more importantly should I travel during the month of Ramadan? The answer to all of these questions is yes. There is no reason to postpone your travel during the month of Ramadan to a country like Malaysia. Food and drink are readily available in all stores, Indian, Chinese and Western restaurants. While if you are in a small town rather than some of the bigger cities you may find a bit more difficulty, there should also be places to find water or snacks.

Kuala Lumpur

I often wondered what polite behavior is during the fasting month, so I asked one of my friends. Simply put, use polite table manners and you probably won’t offend. While most modern Muslim’s would not take offence if you drank a glass of water in front of them, I try to avoid it. I will not eat in front of a fasting person, it seems to me that we have all gotten too casual in this regards anyway, but especially so this month. There are exceptions for Children, however, which something that this Vagabondmom cares about and if your kid has to eat, let them eat. Eating in restaurants or café’s not frequented by Muslims is also totally acceptable. And breaking of the fast, well, there is a whole set of rules for those who are fasting, but for the traveler a few common sense guidelines should be enough to get you on your way!


Buka Puasa at the JW Marriott Hotel

Each day there are specific times for the start and end of the fast. These times are established and then published by the local press and monitored by the local mosques. The call to prayer at sundown is a big deal as hungry people are ready to eat after a day of fasting! During the month it is very popular for many of the Malaysian’s to eat at big buffets (called Buka Puasa) and fancy restaurants. If you intend to eat out, I suggest you either eat early (before 7pm) or make reservations long in advance. Also be prepared to either eat the buffet if offered or understand that some of your favorite dishes may be sold out or only served on the buffet. When breaking fast with your friends and colleagues, you should not eat prior to the call to prayer which happens around 7:30 (again each day is different) and don’t be surprised if your dining mates go off to pray before they eat. I usually take my time and wait until after they have returned from prayer and eaten or have taken a drink before I do the same, again in many cases this is simple table manners.

Otherwise, the only advice I would give is to avoid the week of Hari Raya. Hari Raya is the end of the fasting month and is also called Eid and is the equivalent of December holiday season for those who come from “western” cultures. Be prepared to wait in long lines, travel with 100, 000 of your closest friends and generally suffer all of the inconveniences that we find when trying to travel the 2 weeks between Christmas and New Years. Travel during Ramadan is a great way of learning more about the Islamic religion. Many of the Malays are willing to discuss religion with you and are happy to do during this festive period. And, frankly the buffets are pretty darn good too~!

Travel Quote: Pico Iyer

Breakfast at the Westin Hotel residence in Kuala Lumpur while planning a day at Cosmo's World Amusement Park in Berjaya Times Square.

















So, as I sit at the Plant today meeting with co-workers slogging over files and drafting contracts, the Vagabond Kids and Vagabond Dad are off exploring the city of Kuala Lumpur. First stop was Beryl's Chocolates and much different from other reports, there is not a factory tour, simply a shop selling chocolates. So, quick review is probably give it a miss. The kids are next heading off to Cosmo's World at Berjaya Times Square, a review will follow soon.



But it is Wednesday and time for a quote. I am still finishing the Paul Theroux book, Ghost Train to the Eastern Star: On the Tracks of the Great Railway Bazaar but at this point in the book he is meeting with Pico Iyer in Japan.


So, today's quote comes from Pico Iyer, one of my favorite travel writers.

Yet for me the first great joy of traveling is simply the luxury of leaving all my beliefs and certainties at home, and seeing everything I thought I knew in a different light, and from a crooked angle. In that regard, even a Kentucky
Fried Chicken outlet (in Beijing) or a scratchy revival showing of "Wild
Orchids" (on the Champs-Elysees) can be both novelty and revelation: In China,
after all, people will pay a whole week's wages to eat with Colonel Sanders, and
in Paris, Mickey Rourke is regarded as the greatest actor since Jerry
Lewis.

From the Article on Salon.com "Why we travel" by Pico Iyer.


True-so-true. So, a parting shot for you today of the Petronas Towers. Back with more soon!

Kuala Lumpur with Kids: Kraf Kompleks

Hidden down a side street on a lane now filled with the din and confusion of construction a gem lies waiting for discovery. Wind your way down the street avoiding the trucks and potholes following the signs that mark the way to the Kraf Kompleks (Craft Complex. Most tourists never make it here because it is a bit out of the way, which is a shame really because for an afternoon away from the crowds with activities that are fun for kids and adults alike, the Craft Complex is a real treat.

While the center features most traditional Malay crafts, including pottery, shadow puppets, beading and weaving, the highlight and the one I have always found to be open (the other stalls seem to be hit and miss) is the Batik painting. Batik painting at the Craft Complex is the real deal, you pick the image you want to paint, you chose either silk or cotton fabric and then the staff prepares the wax and image for you.






Some Batik paintings come with pre-waxed images that you then color in the space in between. At the Craft Complex, you can do it either way, but it is much more fun to actually pick your image, trace it and then have it waxed. Once you have your trace done, the artisans at the center will apply the wax for you using a canting and once the wax is cool (about 5 minutes) you then paint on the fabric and watch the colors melt and blend into each other.




The wax acts as a resist and as soon as it is melted off the outline will remain. The ladies at the Kraft Complex will the prepare the final product for you, mat your painting for you and as little as 2 hours from start to finish at a cost of less than $15 US you have your own Batik masterpiece.





The Vagabond Kids love the Craft Complex and painting Batik and it is always a highlight of our trips to Kuala Lumpur. Usually on weekdays we go mid morning and find we are some of the only people in the area (it does tend to fill up with School Kids on certain days in the afternoon).

I know, based on friends that live in KL, the Craft Complex can also arrange for you to have a private party if you live in KL and they have told me birthday parties featuring Batik Painting are always a hit! If traveling with kids in Malaysia, this is one stop you should add to your itinerary.

The Kraft Complex can be found here (Make sure you click on the English option)

63 Jalan Conlay (Behind Chulan Square and next door to the Prince Hotel)


View My Saved Places in a larger map

Borneo with Kids: Miri's Lambir Hills Park aka tours with the headhunters!

Last October (2009) the Vagabond Kids and family set out on a new adventure, to a spot we had not yet done, a place we had not yet traveled. We went on a family vacation to Miri Malaysia on the island of Borneo.

Borneo (so far we have only traveled to Malaysian Borneo) is quickly becoming one of our favorite spots for a quick get away. It is an hour plus by plane from Singapore and still has some native forest left (as compared to much of Indonesia and all of peninsular Malaysia), pristine beaches (for now) and native cultures unlike those on the peninsula.



Jeff, aka Vagabond Dad, is always looking for a new place to see, someplace before it hits the big time. This time, the new spot that cropped up was a couple hundred bucks on an Air Asia flight, two hours in air and a Marriott hotel later and boom, we were in Miri.


Miri is just south of the very oil rich Sultanate of Brunei and is also home to the first oil well in Malaysia. Miri is also a bit of a "hot spot" for Bruneian and expats working in Brunei (Brunei is an Islamic country and no Alcohol is sold there). While we were in Brunei a good size group of British Army-men and their families were camped at the Marriott for a weekend of pool, beer and camaraderie.

Lambir Hills Park

Miri is still a sleepy town, much of it is either oil or timber industry and has not yet become a popular tourist destination in Asia. Much of the tourism that is there, is of the adventure type and Miri serves as home base prior to departing out on a jungle trek and a welcome shower and soft bed upon your return.


We weren't really interested in a big hike, and frankly I am not sure the kids are quite ready for it, but we did want to take the kids out and show them some real forest. Jeff and I grew up in small towns in Oregon, where forests are thick-day hikes are common- and an appreciation of the wild is part of being a kid. Needless to say, Singapore, you don't get that.


We found that there was a nearby day hike, less than an hour drive from the Hotel in the Lambir Hills National Park. The park has multiple waterfalls, suspension bridges and a swimming pond at the end of one of the trails. There are multiple trails in the park, the easiest is about a 25 minute gentle walk towards the swimming hole. There are two ways to get to the park, you can either hire a taxi for the day which would run you about US$35-40 or you can hire a guide and driver. We went ahead and hired the guide and it was a great way of doing the park. The guide, plus car and driver, was only about $60. US, so for the additional $20 we figured it was worth it.




















Jeff showing off little minnows









Our Guide was a local Dayak, and the Dayaks are the indigenous people of Borneo and contain around 200 subgroups. The most infamous of the Dayak tribes were the headhunters, which our guide told us his family was part of that subgroup. We were assured however, that they had not taken any heads for at least 20 years, so we were in safe hands! All jests aside, one of the advantages of having hired the guide we walked through the park and were given some of the local flavor of the park and he showed us how the local peoples used different plants as medicines, how children would make helicopters with certain seeds and how the Dayak people were much more in touch with nature. In many ways much of that culture is gone (and not just the headhunting). The current Dayaks are leaving the forest and going to work on the oil rigs or in the timber plantations so it was interesting to get some of the traditional information while it still exists.









Man this was cold water!














At the end of the trail we sat down to a picnic lunch that we had packed and enjoyed a bit of a dip in the swimming hole. We were by ourselves for an hour or so before another family we had met at the hotel also went for a dip. It was a neat opportunity to get out of the city, to enjoy some trail time and to show the kids what being outdoors really means. After another drive back down the hill a little grubbier and tired we made it back to the hotel and the kids burst back into action in order to hit the pool in time for the Inflatables... but that is a post for another day.

Kids in Borneo- Photos from Miri

Offerings at the oldest Chinese Temple in Miri-Tua Pek Kong.





















I am about to set off for a 2 week trip back to the USA. While wasting time today, I started to work on a report on Miri, a small town in Sarawak Malaysia on the island of Borneo. There were so many great sights over the 3 days we were there, I will tempt you with a few before my post tomorrow.













The pool at the Marriott.




















Along the Lambir Hills National Park trails.





















Waterfalls on the Waterfall trail, Lambir Hills.
















Lambir Hills.